10 Mar 2017
Now that the snacks and small bites are over, we're moving onto a a slightly richer course (although still in a small serving). Agedashi tofu is fried tofu blocks with a starch coating, traditionally served in a dashi/soy broth often topped with katsuobushi, grated daikon radish, and sliced green onions (and has appeared on fivetwentysix this way before). This dish is a slight spin on the traditional prep, served with the katsuobushi flakes but glazed with a smoky bacon "dashi" and topped with gorgeous ikura, or salmon roe. Some yuzu kosho, chili citrus paste, is hiding underneath the tofu as a fun surprise for guests to discover.
Salmon roe are large reddish briny spheres that pop curiously in your mouth. It first appeared on fivetwentsix in the black cod "chicharron" dish, and here we'll be using it as a luxurious topping for the fried tofu; a variation on the traditional caviar course of fine dining. Purists will say that metal spoons react with caviar and imparts an undesirable flavor. I've never taken the risk of verifying this for myself, but regardless I plated with a plastic spoon and gave small ceramic spoons for the guests to use.
Bacon dashi is a creation of David Chang of the Momofuku kitchens. It's exactly what it sounds like: the briny flavor of kombu paired against smoky bacon. It's delicious and useful for many things; we'll be simply thickening it as a glaze for our deep-fried tofu. You'll have extra; put it to good use in soups, broths, or whatever your heart desires.
Rausu kombu is a variety of kombu (kelp) that produces a fragrant, rich stock. It works well in this preparation but is not a hard requirement - use what's available to you.
Makes about 3 cups.
1 sheet rausu kombu
3-4 pieces bacon
Mirin
Shoyu
Rice vinegar
For 4 servings.
1 16-oz package firm tofu
1 cup cornstarch
Rice bran oil, for frying
About 4 Tbsp ikura
Yuzu kosho
1/4 cup katsuobushi flakes
Daikon sprouts for garnish, or other greens
210g bacon dashi, from above
0.63g xanthan gum (0.3%)