16 Jul 2018
Chawanmushi, or Japanese steamed egg custard, has made an appearance on fivetwentysix before. The format is highly adaptable to whatever protein or seasonal vegetables you want to fill it with. For this variation I used dungeness crab meat, and made a dashi infused with green garlic and the crab shells. Cooking with all parts of the animal makes me incredibly happy; crab (and lobster) shells are excellent ingredients, not to be wasted.
The steamed custards are topped with a few spoonfuls of ponzu, a classic citrus & soy based sauce. This version is heavily inspired by Kyle Connaughton's (of Single Thread Restaurant) version appearing in Modernist Cuisine. It will benefit from up to a month of infusing in the refrigerator and is powerfully laden with umami. The garnish for the dish is a few slices of very thinly shaved radish, as much for textural contrast as for flavor.
For 4 servings (yields extra chawanmushi base).
5g Meyer lemon peel
40g Meyer lemon juice
7g orange peel
60g orange juice
10g rice vinegar
40g green garlic, sliced
~185g Dungeness crab shell, crushed (from 1)(reserve meat for filling)
3 large eggs (~145g)
250g crab dashi, from above
Dungeness crab meat, from above
French Breakfast radish, trimmed and cleaned
Greens such as pea shoots or Daikon radish sprouts